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| This Finishing Method was passes along to me by a superb box maker.
It starts with a seal coat of blonde dewaxed shellac mixed fresh. When this coat has cured, the surfaces are buffed vigorously, re-exposing the surface fibers but sealing the pores. After the shellac has been buffed out, a mixture of oil and polyurethane is applied for a glowing hand-rubbed finish that accents the wood’s natural beauty. The shellac sealer coat helps to even out the oil absorption, eliminating blotching and adding luster and a silky-smooth feel to the finish.
Shellac can also be very effective for repairing small cracks or gaps. Before starting the first coat, sand the crack or gap with 220-grit paper and a sanding block working sawdust into the gap. Without removing the dust, apply shellac to the area. Once dry, sand it level and repeat if necessary. |
 Applying the Shellac
First, check your project for any imperfections, glue remnants or pencil lines and sand to 220 grit or finer, then remove the dust. The seal coat of shellac is mixed at a 1-lb cut. A 1-lb cut means that 1lb of shellac flakes is mixed with 1 gallon of denatured alcohol. See the mixing ratio chart for mixing smaller quantities.
Shellac has a short shelf life. It’s best mixed fresh just a few days before it’s needed. Mix and store it in a non-metal, airtight container. Swirl or agitate the mixture frequently for the first few hours to prevent the flakes from clumping.
Before application, the shellac mixture must be strained. Use a piece of cheesecloth doubled over and strain it into a clean container. Submerge the staining pad and then wring it out a bit. The pad shouldn’t create drips or runs while applying. Wipe on a single thin coat on every surface, inside and out, top to bottom.
Shellac dries quite fast, but let it cure overnight before buffing it out. Use 0000 steel wool and buff all surfaces vigorously. Remove all dust and wool fibers by vacuuming and wiping with a clean soft cloth. The surfaces should be silky-smooth at this point. |
 Applying the Oil and Varnish
The oil-and-varnish mixture consists of boiled linseed oil, pure tung oil and oil- based glossy polyurethane.
(Note: the tung oil must be 100% pure; products labeled “tung oil finish” will not work.) |
| Mix it up fresh just before applying. Use a measuring cup and mix at a ratio of 50% polyurethane, 25% boiled linseed oil and 25% pure tung oil.
Or experiment with your own blend. I often use a ratio of equal amounts of each with excellent results. With the mixture ready, submerge your staining pad and soak it thoroughly, then wring out the majority of the oil and just wipe it on all the surfaces.
Let the oil mixture stand for about 10 minutes, then wipe it off thoroughly. When you’re done wiping the oil off, switch to a fresh, clean rag and go over everything again. The oil must be thoroughly wiped off or it will harden, leaving a shiny spot that will have to be buffed again with steel wool. Continue checking the ? nish for oil seepage, especially in areas the oil will hide and wick out, such as around the frames and panels or other joinery areas. Shine a bright light at an angle across the finish to spot areas that need additional wiping. The key to this finish is really wiping all the oil off well.
Let the finish dry for 24 hours and then inspect it for shiny spots of hardened oil. Buff out any such spots before applying the next coat. No buffing of the other surfaces is necessary; just repeat the oil application steps. Two or three coats should be sufficient. After the finish has cured for two or three weeks, or when the oil smell is gone, apply a coat of wax to protect the finish. To care for he finish, dust occasionally with lemon oil and re-wax as needed.
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